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Behold the 50 days of Christmas! Five lists comprised of 10 gifts per, we’ve provided you with a selection of moto-specific gifts to fit every level of expenditure for all kinds of riders. Or, maybe they’re not gifts for others but ideas of what to buy for yourself with all those X-mas greenbacks you’re about to receive in a month’s time. Whatever the case, there’s a lot to look through here, but if that’s not enough, maybe check out some gift guides from Christmases past: 2013 Holiday Gift Guide, 2012 Holiday Gift Guide.
This is a simple modification so you don't have to keep taking ignition key out every time you want to open false tank storage box.
I went to local locksmith and got two copies of ignition key. They are the same too big size and will turn on ignition but without the chip so won't start.
I cut the key and araldited it into a plastic "knob" I had in the garage. You need to measure the key carefully so that it sits flush when finished. If you are pushing it into tight fitting piece of plastic you can heat the key stub with blow torch and "mould" it into plastic fitting but you will probably need araldite too to make it permanent. DSCF4839.jpg
I just leave this permanently in the lock of the false tank. Here's photo. DSCF4841.jpg
It was first attempt and will make neater version but haven't had time yet. When it's in false tank it doesn't look like key.
Normal key is awkward when you are getting documents for boat or passport control having to switch off ignition, remove key, insert in false tank, open and pass over documents and then the reverse. And sometimes that ignition key doesn’t want to go in ignition easily.
So now the little key is in tank lock and I just turn it and remove the documents or get out my camera or some money for tolls without having to touch ignition. DSCF4842.jpg
When parking overnight on a trip I take this key out and hang it on carabiner inside false tank. DSCF4843.jpg
I will probably put on bigger “knob” on key when I get time. Was thinking about similar with panniers but not sure it’s good idea as it might be left “open”. DSCF4844.jpg
I'm 6ft tall. It depends if you want quietish wind pressure (you get that with low screen where the turbulence breaks around your body and doesn't affect your head) or less wind pressure and more buffeting noise. I like the small screen if I'm going short distance and it's not raining. Any other time the bigger screen is better.
The Honda touring screen is OK but creates a fair bit of turbulence. In the rain at speed it somehow pushed rain up the inside of my visor. I got it with the bike mainly for the strong bracketry that comes with that screen. I then made screen from an old cruiser screen I had.
It is top quality "diamond hard" polycarbonate. It is 60cm from the pointy black plastic section of bodywork just above headlight to the top of screen.
I look over it. It worked not too bad and looks OK apart from all the holes I had drilled in it for other uses. I have used Givi airflow before so I thought I'd give this a try. I bought secondhand a Tenere 1200 airflow screen (main screen and sliding airflow screen) for £25 on eaby. I cut the base screen to fit on NC750X and this worked really good and I used it for good number of miles but I made little mistake with the base and cracked it a little so didn't want to do a 2500 mile tour and have the crack get bigger.
Also the shape of base wasn't so nice. But I had the Airflow base screen from a V-Strom so I cut this to fit and this works and looks best.
The airflow section slides about 17cm or so up and down so you can adjust this while riding.
It really reduces the turbulence and makes it easy to ride long distance. You always are looking over top of screens.
It doesn't look great when mounted but in town I just take of the sliding section and I think it looks good with the base. When your doing 90mph down nice road you'll be glad that the airflow... [Read More]